Oh Italy, I think it's actually better to write this blog a couple of months after we return as it's bringing back such fond memories.
I think this trip to Portofino was one of my all time favorite trips. No lie. The location was spectacular, the house we rented couldn't have been more ideal and the friends we went with were the best. Truly, such a great vacation.
Here's a journal entry I wrote while enjoying a quiet morning:
Portofino Italy is truly a gem of the Mediterranean. A small village at the end of a one lane road, sets the stage for truly a magnificent experience.
Long a quiet fishing village, Portofino existed for a thousand years in ambiguity. It laid quietly until the mid 1800's when the wealthy British discovered the port and decided to spend the season relaxing on the sea. Villas were soon purchased and many more built as it quickly became a playground for the rich and famous.
It continues to be a favorite spot for the rich and famous. Dolche Gabana has a house directly on the water, where once a year a private showing for wealthy clients is given. You can find 200' yachts in the harbor, waiting for their owners to enjoy the sea port.
One can purchase a piece of Portofino bit the real estate starts at $1000/sq.
Getting to Portofino is a feast for both the eyes and the senses. Built at the end of a point, Portofino is surrounded by a beautiful mixed forest of Oak, pine and low level shrubs with cliffs that end in the azure blue sea. Established in 1935, the park protects a myriad of aquatic as well as forest flora and fauna. Hiking trails criss cross throughout the rugged terrain, but as Balin found out the first day, the paths often lead straight up the mountain side.
The road to Portofino is a sight for strong constitutions as it hugs the steep cliff walls and separates nature and sea. Starting as a two lane country road it quickly narrows to a single lane as it passes rock outcrops and creates narrow blind curves. With large city buses, Ferrari's and Mazeratti's, as well as the incessant motor scooters, the road ignites an automatic reflex for me to close my eyes. Good thing I'm not the one driving.
The house we rented is called Niasca as it is nestled inside the Niasca bay. The house was purchased by the current family back in the 1800's as their families summer house. There are pictures scattered in the living room from the early 20th century attesting to the holidays taken at the house. In all honesty I've never seen a house quite like it. It's deceptively large as it is actually 3 stories, each level belonging to an independent family. Our portion of the house had 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a very large and gracious common area, complete with gorgeous kitchen. What makes the section we were in so unique is the fact that the one lane road to Portofino actually is on top of the house. The rooms were built into the hillside and the great room has the road overhead. So unique. The living room is adorned with two gigantic rounded French doors that open onto the water and beach below. It is truly breath taking.
Below us is a small shop called "Outdoor Portofino" which rents all kinds of water crafts. The beach was packed full every day by 8:30, so we were quick to go and mark our section of beach for the day.
There is something so soothing about swimming in the Mediterranean. I would liken it to swimming in an Epsom salt bath, slightly cooler than body temperature. The water is so smooth and silky and it's like looking through a blue tinted glass to your feet- crystal clear. Due to the high salt content in the sea, you actually can float around, like a buoy. Balin and I would take a swim regularly and be able to tread water for a half an hour while enjoying a good conversation. So lovely.
Our time with our friends was really fun. Two sets of our neighbors from Liberty Lake joined us and we had such a nice time. Part of the joy was Balin had assigned everyone 2 days where they were responsible for buying food and preparing both breakfast and dinner. Everyone found it to be a great experience to drive the car into town, find parking (no small feat), purchase food at the market (we soon found out your not to touch the merchandise in the market!) and then return to prepare your meal. We had some excellent meals, not a one disappointed.
The other aspect that made traveling with these couples so easy is we all took the mind set that this is your vacation, do what you want to do on your vacation. Balin and I spent much time taking walks alone or going to town for a cappuccino in the middle of the day while others stayed near the beach. One day the other two couples went to Cinque Terra and spent the day at one of the 5 towns while Balin and I stayed home and enjoyed running some errands and having alone time.
In the afternoons, after laying on the coffee, breakfast, laying on the beach, we would often take a walk into town and go have a drink. Nothing like a beer or glass of wine in Italy to say your on vacation.
Some days we wouldn't want to leave our case so we busted out aperitifs and local limoncello as we sat on the patio and took in the view. So good.
On Monday, Balin got an email stating he needed to be at a meeting the following Monday in Houston. He changed his plane flight from Milan to Houston and then we headed out to find Balin some appropriate clothes to wear. I spotted a shop that looked great and we headed in. I asked the sales person if they could dress Balin and they smiled and said they'd be right with us. A minute later the owner of the shop came over, asked what he needed the clothes for and then promptly started pulling clothes off the hangers. Oh boy- my boy has now got some serious new clothes, Italian style and I'm liking it! He got two new linen shirts, two pairs of skinny pants, a hand sewn sports jacket, pair of blue suede shoes and a belt.
Again, I can't say enough how delightful this trip was. I am already thinking about when we can go back.
Comments